Watch of the Week: Montblanc 1858 Break up-Second Chronograph Restricted-Version 18

Navy watches by no means exit of favor. Regardless of their rugged, utilitarian roots, customers go bonkers for his or her daring designs. As such, they’re fertile floor for watchmakers who need to invoke the previous whereas experimenting with new supplies and actions. The Montblanc 1858 Break up-Second Chronograph Restricted-Version 18 falls straight into that class: It’s a military-inspired watch that makes use of a placing new “lime gold” case materials.

Montblanc’s 1858 line pays tribute to the legendary Minerva timepieces of the 1920s and ’30s, which have been developed for navy use. The 1858 Break up Second Chronograph Restricted Version 18 takes plenty of cues from these authentic watches, most notably the telemeter scale across the fringe of the dial. Based on Montblanc, the telemeter was a standard characteristic on the unique Minervas, and it’s a classic contact with an necessary perform: It lets you measure the gap of an occasion you can see and listen to. Interact it if you see lightning, for instance, and if you hear thunder, the telemeter’s studying will let you know how distant the strike was out of your place.

montblanc 1858
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However the primary story with this watch is its uncommon shade scheme, which is made potential by its distinctive lime gold case materials. It’s a particular alloy composed of gold, silver, and iron, and it offers off a “deep golden shade that veers in direction of a pale yellowy inexperienced,” in keeping with Montblanc.

Montblanc accents the greenish hue by pairing the watch with a inexperienced nubuck strap and including loads of inexperienced components on the dial, too. The cathedral-shaped palms and the telemeter and tachymeter scales all sport completely different shades of inexperienced, and the inexperienced numerals look as in the event that they’re about to spring off the face of the watch. Montblanc achieved this novel 3D impact by creating the numerals out of blocks of Tremendous Lumi-Nova (other than the fascinating aesthetic, it additionally makes them simply seen, day or night time).

montblanc 1858
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Montblanc affords one last shock on the reverse aspect of the 44mm case: A see-through caseback that places the inside workings of the MB M16.31 motion on full show. This manually wound chronograph motion is one other nod to the unique Minervas (it’s impressed by their 19-09CH and 17-29 actions), however with its handcrafted ending, graining, and beveling, it affords a stage of workmanship not present in such utilitarian timepieces. And it’s very unique—Montblanc will manufacture simply 18 of those watches.

One factor’s for positive: With its storied pedigree and distinctive case materials, this watch would be the crown jewel of any assortment.

The watch retails for $50,000 and is out there in Montblanc shops.


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